Hey there, tech enthusiasts! It’s Carolina, your go-to gal for everything fabulously techy. Today, let’s dive deep into the mesmerizing world of SLA resin 3D printing. Whether you’re a newbie or a seasoned techie, there’s always something new to discover. Hold on tight because we’re about to embark on a step-by-step journey to mastering the art of post-processing SLA resin prints.
Step 1: Freshen Up That Print!
After extracting your masterpiece from the build plate, give it a spa treatment by immersing it in Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). This mini-bath ensures any lingering uncured resin and its semi-solid cousins are efficiently washed away.
By the way, for those of you wondering about my go-to equipment: The Elegoo Mercury Plus 2-In-One Machine is a lifesaver. This gem both washes and cures with perfection. And, spoiler alert: it’s the very one I swear by!
Pro-tip: Employ a gentle toothbrush to thoroughly cleanse your model. Why? Because occasionally, there’s that stubborn slightly cured resin that tries to cling on. And trust me, nobody wants that unsightly white residue. Always rock those nitrile gloves while handling resin – it’s a love that’s not meant to touch our skin!
Also, while IPA is fantastic, there are other cleaning warriors out there: denatured alcohol and methylated spirits, to name a couple. Discover more cleaning alternatives in this intriguing video right here.
Step 2: Say Goodbye to Supports
With your model sparkling clean and dry, it’s time to part ways with those supports. Do it pre-curing, trust me on this. Post-curing makes this task a Herculean challenge. Not to mention the potential damage to your precious model.
Ever heard of the hot water trick? Briefly immersing your model in warm water can soften the supports, making them easier to remove. But be careful with your model’s finer details. An epic tutorial by Uncle Jessy showcases the art of using flush cutters to bid farewell to those supports.
Step 3: Let’s Get Smooth with Sanding
For a silky-smooth finish, commence with a lower grit sandpaper (think 100-150) for the initial dry sanding. Gradually ascend the grit ladder (220, 320, 400, up to 600) based on your desired smoothness.
Safety first, my friends! Always wear a mask and safety goggles. And if you’re aiming to keep dust at bay, wet sanding is the way to go. If you’re hunting for top-notch sandpaper, the PAXCOO Sandpaper Assortment 120-3,000 Grit is a godsend.
Step 4: Cure to Perfection
Post-sanding, your model is craving some curing action. Sunbathing (direct sunlight) or a specialized UV lamp/flashlight with a turntable will do the trick. My personal favorite? The Comgrow UV Resin Curing Light with Turntable. This beauty is equipped with potent 405nm UV LEDs and a solar-powered rotating platform, ensuring a thorough cure.
Depending on your light source’s intensity, curing could range from a swift 1-5 minutes to a leisurely 3-5-hour sunbath.
Step 5: Assemble the Masterpiece
If your model’s segmented, now’s the time to unite the pieces. For that flawless bond, superglue combined with an accelerator, like the Starbond Instant Set Accelerator, is pure magic.
Or here’s a twist: Try dabbing some UV resin on the joining parts and cure with a UV light. It’s like superglue on steroids!
Step 6: Paint Your Heart Out
Finally, dress your model in its finest attire: paint. Start with a primer base, then let your creativity flow with your choice of paint – be it spray, airbrush, or hand-painted. My personal preference? Rust-Oleum Primer & Spray Paint. Their palette is to die for!
Want to master the art of painting resin 3D prints? Here’s a fantastic video to guide you.
Now that you’re all equipped, go ahead and create, refine, and showcase your 3D printing masterpieces. Until next time, stay techie!